Father's Day photo.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Home Again
It's good to be home, but getting here sure was a nightmare. What should have been a 14-hour flight took 24 1/2 hours, thanks to US Airways canceling our flight at the last minute in order to combine it with a later flight. Hannah and Olivia handled the marathon day like champs, but Micah was beside himself. I was in tears by the time we got to Phoenix. I hadn't slept more than 30 minutes during the whole 24 hours, and was bone tired from the ordeal of trying to control Micah while warding off the fiery darts of my fellow passengers who either (a) have never had children of their own; or (b) cannot remember what it's like to have young children. Either way, I was in Dante's Inferno, 10th Circle (if one existed). The 9th Circle involved incapsulation in ice up to progressively greater depths. Well this was worse.
One choice 20-something, male passenger who sat in the seat in front of me on the flight from Barcelona to Philadelphia had the gall to recline his seat into my lap, and then buck the seat back or whip his head around anytime Micah made a noise or even touched his seat. About 1 hour into the 8 hour flight, he swung around with a grimace, spitting out: "Do you mind?! I can't sleep!" I was already in quite the mood, and (although normally quite conciliatory), I spat back: "At least you GET to sleep." I then reminded Micah throughout the rest of the flight not to touch the seat, using words Micah likes and gets these days: "the man will get mad" "mean man." Okay, I didn't say it very loudly, but I did say it.
And when an irate male flight attendant (who almost certainly is not married and doesn't have children) on the flight from Philadelphia to Phoenix came to my seat demanding with thinly-veiled disdain, "is there anything we can do to 'help' him stop screaming (like shoot him with a tranquilizer dart)," I couldn't control myself and retorted: "Sir, we've been traveling for over 20 hours today, due to US Airways delay and cancellation of our flights. My child is beside himself and wants to get off the plane. I don't think you can accommodate that request." He grunted and stomped away. At the end of the flight (Micah did fall asleep after his fit and slept for the last 3 hours of that 4 1/2 hour flight leg), I apologized to that flight attendant as I exited the plane, and he didn't respond. Not a word.
It's home sweet home now, thank goodness. We got home at about 11 p.m. on Thursday night, and I slept from midnight until 6 a.m. I forced myself to stay up yesterday until 10 p.m. despite exhaustion, hoping that would cure the jet lag. But I woke up at 1:42 a.m. and have not been able to go back to sleep. I stayed in bed with my eyes forced shut until 2:40 a.m. and then gave up and came downstairs to at least be productive. I'll pay for it later today no doubt.
On Monday we head a couple of hours north to a family reunion. It should be fun to see family members again!
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Hop on Hop Off = Flat Out Exhaustion
It's 8:40 a.m. here in Barcelona and the family is still sleeping, trying to recover from yesterday's adventure. We got an early start and walked the half mile or so from our apartment down Las Ramblas to Placa de Catalunya to catch the Hop on Hop Off Bus that would take us to some of the Antoni Gaudi sites I've been so eager to see.
(Although the primary language here is Catalan, pretty much everyone speaks Spanish as well, and I can't tell you how helpful it is to travel with a native speaker. Because we're relying on public transportation (and our own feet), we have to ask for directions repeatedly anytime we try to go anywhere. Having three young children in tow, including a stroller, makes it all the more challenging.)
It was a great, but utterly exhausting, day. We saw many Gaudi sites, including Casa Batlo, Sagrada Familia, La Pedrada, and Park Guell. Antoni Gaudi was an architect from Catalonia, Spain who lived from 1852 to 1926 and designed many cool buildings in Barcelona. He rejected the Gothic style of the time with its straight lines and symmetry and instead embraced a new modern style with swirls and curving lines. He was a recycler with flair, who used broken old cups, wine bottles and saucers for mosaic detail in his works. He was a devout Catholic and spent decades of his life working on Sagrada Familia. In fact, although famous and esteemed, he spent the last years of his life living in the crypt of the Sagrada Familia, devoting all of his time and effort to the project. (I kind of admire that sort of crazy devotion.) He died on June 10, 1926 in a pauper's hospital. A few days earlier, he left the church on foot and was hit by a streetcar. Because he was dressed in shabby clothing, he was unrecognized. Today, his amazing Sagrada Familia is considered something of an 8th wonder of the world, and over a million people come to visit it each year. Both Danilo and I agree that it's one of the most incredible things we have ever seen. You should go see it with your own eyes some day if you can.
In addition to the Gaudi sites, we also ventured to a labyrinth park in the north of Barcelona. This was quite an experience, because we had to take city buses that didn't exactly drop us off anywhere close to our intended destination. We got lost and had to ask for help from the locals (repeatedly), but we made the best of it. We stopped to appreciate the freeway as we crossed over a pedestrian bridge (and then back over when we realized we had spent 20 minutes walking in the wrong direction). We admired the graffiti art when we found ourselves in a tunnel under the freeway. And we thoroughly enjoyed the cypress tree maze once we found it. The park is called Jardins del Laberint d'Horta. If you ever go, I'll give you directions!
We didn't make it back to our apartment until almost 9 p.m. and didn't have the children bathed and fed until about 10:30 p.m. We all have achy feet, but it was worth it! You can see some photos from the journey here.
(Although the primary language here is Catalan, pretty much everyone speaks Spanish as well, and I can't tell you how helpful it is to travel with a native speaker. Because we're relying on public transportation (and our own feet), we have to ask for directions repeatedly anytime we try to go anywhere. Having three young children in tow, including a stroller, makes it all the more challenging.)
It was a great, but utterly exhausting, day. We saw many Gaudi sites, including Casa Batlo, Sagrada Familia, La Pedrada, and Park Guell. Antoni Gaudi was an architect from Catalonia, Spain who lived from 1852 to 1926 and designed many cool buildings in Barcelona. He rejected the Gothic style of the time with its straight lines and symmetry and instead embraced a new modern style with swirls and curving lines. He was a recycler with flair, who used broken old cups, wine bottles and saucers for mosaic detail in his works. He was a devout Catholic and spent decades of his life working on Sagrada Familia. In fact, although famous and esteemed, he spent the last years of his life living in the crypt of the Sagrada Familia, devoting all of his time and effort to the project. (I kind of admire that sort of crazy devotion.) He died on June 10, 1926 in a pauper's hospital. A few days earlier, he left the church on foot and was hit by a streetcar. Because he was dressed in shabby clothing, he was unrecognized. Today, his amazing Sagrada Familia is considered something of an 8th wonder of the world, and over a million people come to visit it each year. Both Danilo and I agree that it's one of the most incredible things we have ever seen. You should go see it with your own eyes some day if you can.
In addition to the Gaudi sites, we also ventured to a labyrinth park in the north of Barcelona. This was quite an experience, because we had to take city buses that didn't exactly drop us off anywhere close to our intended destination. We got lost and had to ask for help from the locals (repeatedly), but we made the best of it. We stopped to appreciate the freeway as we crossed over a pedestrian bridge (and then back over when we realized we had spent 20 minutes walking in the wrong direction). We admired the graffiti art when we found ourselves in a tunnel under the freeway. And we thoroughly enjoyed the cypress tree maze once we found it. The park is called Jardins del Laberint d'Horta. If you ever go, I'll give you directions!
We didn't make it back to our apartment until almost 9 p.m. and didn't have the children bathed and fed until about 10:30 p.m. We all have achy feet, but it was worth it! You can see some photos from the journey here.
Sunday, June 6, 2010
Sometimes a Wander Beats a Destination
We hadn't even made it out onto the street from our apartment before Olivia (5) complained "I'm tired." And so it went. We walked and walked, and my kids complained. And to add to the experience, it started to rain. Hoping it would pass, we took refuge in a 3 story McDonald's on Las Ramblas. The rain continued and intensified. We relented to the street salesman pushing their cheap umbrellas, and we slogged on toward our destination -- the secret garden beach in Eixample I had read about online.
Consulting our maps numerous times and ignoring the twittering of complaining children, we finally reached it. By this time, we knew there would be no swimming. It was still raining and soggy. But we had a plan, and we stuck to it. When we finally arrived at Eixample "Beach," we were underwhelmed to say the least. The splash pool was dirty, there were no other children (or people) to be seen, and the rain continued to fall. They ran around anyway while Danilo and I studied the map again, looking for another destination so we wouldn't have to call the day a failure.
In the end, we decided to walk towards an old area of Barcelona called Barri Gotic. The rain stopped somewhere along the way, and we had a great time. We had gelato, chased pigeons in Placa de Catalunya, and then thoroughly enjoyed the Catedral de Barcelona and the old stone architecture of the Barri Gotic.
We made our way back to our apartment after miles of walking and made pasta and arepas for dinner (we're a long way from Venezuela, but Danilo found the Venezuelan arepa flour just down the street from where we're staying). We tried to watch TV in our apartment, but the only thing we could find in English was a channel with music videos from the 1980s -- so we danced to "Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go" by Wham (difficult to believe that video isn't a joke). After that got old, we watched some soccer (football). It turned out to be a great day after all.
Now it's bedtime, and I'm hoping and praying that the good people of Barcelona need to get some sleep for work tomorrow so that I can get some sleep tonight! Tomorrow, we're taking a hop on hop off bus tour of the city and hope to see some great Gaudi sights.
Click here to see some photos from the day.
Consulting our maps numerous times and ignoring the twittering of complaining children, we finally reached it. By this time, we knew there would be no swimming. It was still raining and soggy. But we had a plan, and we stuck to it. When we finally arrived at Eixample "Beach," we were underwhelmed to say the least. The splash pool was dirty, there were no other children (or people) to be seen, and the rain continued to fall. They ran around anyway while Danilo and I studied the map again, looking for another destination so we wouldn't have to call the day a failure.
In the end, we decided to walk towards an old area of Barcelona called Barri Gotic. The rain stopped somewhere along the way, and we had a great time. We had gelato, chased pigeons in Placa de Catalunya, and then thoroughly enjoyed the Catedral de Barcelona and the old stone architecture of the Barri Gotic.
We made our way back to our apartment after miles of walking and made pasta and arepas for dinner (we're a long way from Venezuela, but Danilo found the Venezuelan arepa flour just down the street from where we're staying). We tried to watch TV in our apartment, but the only thing we could find in English was a channel with music videos from the 1980s -- so we danced to "Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go" by Wham (difficult to believe that video isn't a joke). After that got old, we watched some soccer (football). It turned out to be a great day after all.
Now it's bedtime, and I'm hoping and praying that the good people of Barcelona need to get some sleep for work tomorrow so that I can get some sleep tonight! Tomorrow, we're taking a hop on hop off bus tour of the city and hope to see some great Gaudi sights.
Click here to see some photos from the day.
Adventures in Barcelona
Our apartment in Barcelona is nice, but the neighborhood is a bit wild for my liking. We're right off Las Ramblas, and the streets were alive with loud partying well into the early morning hours. Our kids must have been exhausted, because they tell me they didn't hear any noise. I couldn't sleep, and Danilo took up all the space on the very small bed in the master bedroom (it's only a full, I think), so I ended up on the couch.
After the nappers finally got up yesterday afternoon, we headed out to explore Las Ramblas, which is a huge pedestrian street with all sorts of people watching opportunities. There are many guys dressed in costumes with painted bodies who stand still like statues and then move when you're not expecting it. As you walk, you find bird and animal stalls, flowers, souvenirs, tapas, and all sorts of other interesting things.
On the way back to our apartment, we stopped at an amazing fresh food market called La Boqueria. It's huge and packed full of stalls brimming with bright fruits and vegetables, nuts, cheeses and almost anything else you could want. As we worked our way through the stalls, we found ourselves in the fish and meat area. Micah started complaining "nose! nose!" It took me a minute to realize that he was complaining about the smell! We made a quick exit, because he was right.
Last night, we feasted on fresh strawberries, coconut, apricots, tomatoes, and corn. It was fabulous.
We're getting a very late start today, but the plan is to go visit a small children's beach I read about. We already experienced some topless beaches in Italy and Corsica, so I figure this children's beach should be safe. (The topless bathers brought to mind the old Smiths lyrics -- "you without clothes, I cannot keep a straight face. Me without clothes, a nation turns its back and gags." It's just not the kind of thing you want to see. Complete lack of judgment on the part of the bathers.)
After the nappers finally got up yesterday afternoon, we headed out to explore Las Ramblas, which is a huge pedestrian street with all sorts of people watching opportunities. There are many guys dressed in costumes with painted bodies who stand still like statues and then move when you're not expecting it. As you walk, you find bird and animal stalls, flowers, souvenirs, tapas, and all sorts of other interesting things.
On the way back to our apartment, we stopped at an amazing fresh food market called La Boqueria. It's huge and packed full of stalls brimming with bright fruits and vegetables, nuts, cheeses and almost anything else you could want. As we worked our way through the stalls, we found ourselves in the fish and meat area. Micah started complaining "nose! nose!" It took me a minute to realize that he was complaining about the smell! We made a quick exit, because he was right.
Last night, we feasted on fresh strawberries, coconut, apricots, tomatoes, and corn. It was fabulous.
We're getting a very late start today, but the plan is to go visit a small children's beach I read about. We already experienced some topless beaches in Italy and Corsica, so I figure this children's beach should be safe. (The topless bathers brought to mind the old Smiths lyrics -- "you without clothes, I cannot keep a straight face. Me without clothes, a nation turns its back and gags." It's just not the kind of thing you want to see. Complete lack of judgment on the part of the bathers.)
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Back in Barcelona
We finished our Mediterranean cruise today. Two continents, five countries, ten days. Although I'm sad that portion of the trip is over (it was amazing), I must say that I'm glad not to have access to any more buffets. I think I gained at least 5 pounds, but I'm sure this week in Barcelona without unlimited food at our disposal will remedy that.
Danilo and all three kids are now napping. I have wifi access, and the world is good. Alas, attempts to upload photos from our cruise have been unsuccessful as of yet. Perhaps the file sizes are too large for this internet connection to handle?
The pictures are so much better than any of my words, but for now, here are some thoughts about some of the places we visited.
Danilo and all three kids are now napping. I have wifi access, and the world is good. Alas, attempts to upload photos from our cruise have been unsuccessful as of yet. Perhaps the file sizes are too large for this internet connection to handle?
The pictures are so much better than any of my words, but for now, here are some thoughts about some of the places we visited.
MALTA
Limestone city
Wonderful, colorful doors
Amazingly blue water
Bright fishing boats
Aggressive horse buggy tour, tour aborted
TUNIS, TUNISIA
Mosaics
Fragrance, essence, spice
The Medina
Hand-knotted rugs
The detail and color of the doors
Aggressive bartering, firm hold on my wrist
NAPLES, ITALY
Breathtaking Amalfi coast (despite Micah's vomiting episode on tour bus)
Intricately detailed wooden boxes
Perched houses
Friendly people
Lost blanket, lost stroller, found both, but angry tour bus
Lunch overlooking the sea
Pompei preserved bodies (why are my children so macabre?)
Hannah & Olivia jumping and leaping all over the 2000 year old ruins
LA SPEZIA & CINQUE TERRE, ITALY
Five beautiful villages, perched on the cliffs (I want to hike the connecting trails someday!)
Amazing stone churches built straight out of the rock
Colorful, tall houses -- laundry blowing from the windows like flags
Fresh cheese, bread, vegetables, fruit, soap (what more do I need?)
Pizza and gelato twice in one day
ROME, ITALY
Whirlwind 12-hour tour with 3 young kids who failed to appreciate what their eyes were beholding
Saint Peter's, the Vatican, the Coloseum, Trevi Fountain, ruins ruins everywhere
Juxtaposition of ancient and modern
Construction thwarted by ruins unearthed anytime you dig
Gladiators with cigarettes and cell phones
Puppet show at the park (Pucinella)
CORSICA
Napolean
Beautiful green coast, scented air
Medieval strongholds
Craggy rocks
Perfect weather
French with attitude -- no English
Delicious pizza with capers and olives (and more gelatto)
FRENCH RIVIERA (NICE, MONACO, MONTE CARLO, EZE)
Clean, beautiful, elite to excess
Arizona plants (bougainvillea, oleander, succulents, cacti, palm trees) -- but they look so much more amazing against the backdrop of the sea
Fancy cars in Monte Carlo
Changing of the guard at the palace in Monaco
Heaven on the mountain in Eze -- shops, spices, perfume, soap, exotic cliff top garden (can I stay?)
I'll post photos as soon as I can manage it.
Post script: While I can't seem to upload photos to blogger, I did succeed in uploading some photos to Facebook, so you can go take a look there. Click here to see some of the photos.
Post script: While I can't seem to upload photos to blogger, I did succeed in uploading some photos to Facebook, so you can go take a look there. Click here to see some of the photos.
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